As the temperatures start to drop and the days grow shorter, my thoughts inevitably turn to the richer, heartier brews that are perfect for the autumn and winter months. And when it comes to satisfying that craving, there’s one style that always rises to the top of my list: the robust porter.
Mastering the Art of the Porter
I remember the genesis of my first all-grain robust porter recipe. I was just a humble extract brewer, making the transition to all-grain, and I wanted to brew a robust porter on my new MoreBeer sculpture. Luckily, I had the chance to pick the brain of a true porter fanatic, Regan Dillon, who hooked me up with a recipe that served me well for years, winning numerous awards.
I’ve tweaked that original recipe many times over the years, but the general idea has remained the same. And when I recently brewed a robust porter at my own brewery, Heretic Brewing Company, that recipe was yet another branch from that original tree. It was just a wonderful coincidence that Regan happened to stop by the day the beer was ready for packaging – I was honored to share my first commercial batch of porter with the person who had given me my very first robust porter recipe, and to have him voice his approval of the result.
Exploring the Nuances of Robust Porter
Robust porter is a complex, rich, and roasty ale. The style can range quite a bit, from the bigger, bolder American interpretations to the more restrained English versions. But what they all have in common is a fair amount of roasted character, reminiscent of coffee and chocolate.
The best examples also exhibit other malt-driven flavors and aromas, like bready, biscuit, and caramel notes. The appearance can range from dark brown to almost black, and the bitterness can be firm, with the overall balance ranging from slightly sweet to firmly bitter, and the finish from dry to medium-sweet.
One common mistake that many brewers make when attempting this style is going overboard on the roast character. Either the amount of roast is too little or too much, or the flavor of the roast is far too acrid. It can be a tricky balance to strike, as you also need to account for the effects of residual malt sweetness, specialty grains, hopping, and yeast attenuation.
Choosing the Right Ingredients
When it comes to the base malt, I generally prefer to use North American two-row, which gives the beer a clean, subtle background malt character that’s common to many fine American craft beers. But you could also go with North American pale ale malt, which adds a slightly richer background, or British pale ale malt, which lends an even deeper, fuller, and richer malt character.
Regardless of the base malt, I like to add around 10% Munich malt to the grain bill. It adds a lovely background malt note that helps fill out the character of the beer.
For extract brewers, I’d recommend using a light-colored North American malt extract. And for all-grain brewers, a single infusion mash at a mid-range temperature, between 150-156°F (66-69°C), works well. You can adjust the mash temperature based on the yeast and starting gravity – lower temps for lower-attenuating yeasts and higher gravities, and higher temps for higher-attenuating yeasts and lower gravities.
Balancing the Roast and Sweetness
Specialty malts are where the real magic happens when it comes to crafting the perfect robust porter. Every example of the style needs those roasted malt notes, and most include some level of caramel malt flavors as well. Not including any caramel malt can leave the beer tasting more like a dry stout if there isn’t plenty of unfermented sugar in the beer.
Experimenting with the amounts and colors of crystal and roasted malts is a great way to change the character of your porter. The roasty, chocolate, and coffee notes come from highly kilned grains like chocolate, black patent, and roasted barley. But be careful – these malts can be tricky, as the flavors can vary considerably from one maltster to another, even for similarly named products.
I find that a blend of highly kilned and lighter kilned roasted malts, like a 40-60 mix of black patent and chocolate malt, strikes a nice balance of sharp, roasted notes and less acrid, burnt coffee/chocolate flavors. But it really depends on the other balancing factors in the beer, like hopping and residual sweetness, which can either emphasize or mellow out that sharpness.
Crystal malts are crucial for adding caramel flavors and residual sweetness to balance out the bitterness of the roast grains and hops. I generally like to use a mid-color crystal malt, but the type and amount can vary dramatically. Lower color crystal malts tend to contribute more perceived sweetness, while the darker 80-150°L varieties add more caramelized, raisin-plum notes.
You’ll want to experiment to find the right balance between the sweetness of the crystal malt, the residual sugars, the sharpness of the roasted grains, and the hop bitterness. In general, I aim for 5-10% crystal malt in the grist, but that can certainly vary depending on your other ingredients and desired profile.
Hopping Considerations
When it comes to hops, you have plenty of leeway, but I’d recommend sticking with British or American-grown versions of traditional British hop varieties. They’ll lend mostly floral and earthy notes, which complement the dark malt character nicely.
Watch out for citrusy hop character, as that can clash with the roasted flavors and carbonation, resulting in a sharp, acidic bite that’s not ideal for this style. Robust porter should have a medium to high bitterness, with the balance of bittering versus malt sweetness ranging from balanced to firmly bitter.
I like to use some lower alpha acid British hops, like Kent Goldings or Fuggles, for the bittering addition, as they lend a subtle, background hoppy character rather than just pure bitterness.
Yeast and Fermentation
When it comes to yeast, you want a well-attenuated, low-ester strain to showcase the malt character. If you prefer a cleaner, more American-style ale, go with something like White Labs WLP001 California Ale or Wyeast 1056 American Ale. These will give you a nicely dry, drinkable porter without any estery distractions.
If you want a more complex, British-inspired beer, you could try a strain like White Labs WLP004 Irish Stout or WLP002 English Ale, or Wyeast 1968 London ESB or 1084 Irish Ale. Just make sure to oxygenate the wort well and pitch an appropriate amount of healthy yeast to ensure good attenuation.
Regardless of the yeast you choose, I recommend fermenting in the 65-70°F (18-21°C) range and keeping the temperature steady throughout to avoid any unwanted off-flavors, especially if you’re brewing a bigger beer. Letting the temperature swing too much can lead to early flocculation or solvent/estery notes.
After primary fermentation is complete, you can give the yeast a helping hand by raising the temp a few degrees near the end to help them clean up any intermediate compounds. But with the right pitch rate and temperature control, that shouldn’t be necessary.
Putting It All Together
So, there you have it – my approach to crafting the perfect robust porter. It’s a delicate balance of roasty, chocolatey malt flavors and just the right amount of sweetness and bitterness. And with a little experimentation and attention to detail, you can create a porter that’s sure to warm the soul on even the chilliest of winter nights.
Now, if you’ll excuse me, I think it’s time to head down to The Up and Under Pub and enjoy a pint or two of my latest creation. Cheers!
