The Brandy Enigma: Unraveling Wisconsin’s Curious Cocktail Affair
Picture this: the year is 1893, and the World’s Columbian Exposition is in full swing in Chicago. Millions flock to the fair, a quarter of the country’s population at the time. Among them, a group of three brothers from California – Francis, Anton, and Joseph Korbel – are busy showcasing their brandy. The story goes that this fateful encounter was the spark that ignited Wisconsin’s enduring love affair with the amber spirit.
At least, that’s the popular legend that’s been passed down through the ages. But as I dug into the history, I found that the truth behind Wisconsin’s brandy obsession is a bit more convoluted. You see, I’m on a mission to uncover the real stories behind the state’s most iconic drinks, and the brandy question has always loomed large.
As I learned from the Alcohol Professor, Wisconsin drinks more brandy than any other state, and most of that goes into the Wisconsin Old Fashioned – a delightful muddled concoction of sugar, bitters, orange, and maraschino cherries, topped with brandy and sweet or sour soda. So I knew that understanding the brandy backstory would be crucial to my quest.
Debunking the Korbel Legend
The common tale is that the Korbel brothers’ brandy debut at the World’s Fair sparked Wisconsin’s lifelong love affair with the spirit. But as I dove into the archives, the evidence just didn’t add up. Sure, the Korbels were there showcasing their brandy, but so were over two dozen other California winemakers, including several German immigrants. And while the Korbels only offered a single brandy, some of the other exhibitors displayed up to four different varieties.
Furthermore, I couldn’t find any concrete proof that after the fair, brandy shipments to Wisconsin suddenly skyrocketed. In fact, the data showed that in 1894, the largest export of American brandy was actually to Germany, with over 313,000 gallons shipped to the Fatherland, including 409 barrels destined for the German army’s hospitals.
So much for the Korbel legend. But if that wasn’t the real story, then what was? As I dug deeper, a more complex and fascinating tale began to emerge.
The Wartime Brandy Boom
According to one Milwaukee Journal article from 1966, the real reason for Wisconsin’s brandy dominance lay in the state’s unique access to the spirit during wartime rationing. When bourbon became scarce due to the war effort, brandy shipments flooded into Wisconsin, and the locals grew to love the stuff.
“One time years ago when bourbon was rationed because of the war, an awful lot of brandy was shipped into Wisconsin,” the article notes. “Because it was easier to get than whisky, people drank brandy and got to like it.”
This theory was backed up by another Milwaukee Journal piece from 1975, which interviewed liquor distributor Joel Goodman. Goodman explained that during World War II, distilleries had converted their whiskey production to torpedo fuel, and crops were diverted to feed the troops. This led to a voluntary shutdown of distilleries to ship grain to Europe, resulting in a nationwide booze shortage.
“Around this same time Wisconsin distributors learned that Christian Brothers had a cache of brandy aging in barrels,” Goodman said. “The distributors bought up all 30,000 cases of it, and all of this brandy came into the state in one fell swoop.” Suddenly, Wisconsin bartenders had a ready supply of the good stuff, and brandy cocktails became the order of the day.
The Brandy Marketing Blitz
But the story doesn’t end there. As the Alcohol Professor article notes, in the 1950s and 1960s, brandy makers began aggressively marketing their products to Wisconsinites. “The more brandy we consumed, the more brandy was marketed to us,” the article states. Korbel, for example, launched a slogan proclaiming their brandy was “A nickel more and worth it.”
So while the Korbel legend may not hold water, the brand still managed to cement its place in Wisconsin’s cocktail culture. The state’s brandy obsession, it seems, was the result of a perfect storm – wartime rationing, savvy distribution, and a well-orchestrated marketing campaign. It’s a tale that’s equal parts history, economics, and good old-fashioned human behavior.
The Enduring Allure of the Wisconsin Old Fashioned
Of course, no discussion of Wisconsin’s brandy legacy would be complete without mentioning the iconic Wisconsin Old Fashioned. This beloved cocktail, a muddled masterpiece of sugar, bitters, orange, and maraschino cherries, topped with brandy and soda, has become a state institution.
And it’s not just any old brandy that graces the Wisconsin Old Fashioned – it’s the amber nectar that’s synonymous with the Badger State. As one Milwaukee Journal article put it, “Wisconsin drinks more brandy than any other state and most of our brandy consumption goes into the Wisconsin old fashioned.”
So what is it about this cocktail that has captured the hearts (and taste buds) of Wisconsinites for generations? Is it the perfect balance of sweet, bitter, and boozy? The nostalgic ritual of muddling the ingredients? Or is it simply the fact that it’s as much a part of the state’s cultural fabric as cheese curds and the Packers?
Whatever the reason, the Wisconsin Old Fashioned has become an iconic symbol of the state’s brandy love affair. And as I sip on one, gazing out over the rolling hills and lush forests, I can’t help but feel a sense of kinship with the generations of Wisconsinites who have come before me, all united by a shared passion for this delightful, time-honored elixir.
Brandy’s Enduring Legacy
So while the Korbel legend may have been debunked, the lasting impact of brandy on Wisconsin’s drinking culture is undeniable. From the wartime rationing that first sparked the state’s brandy boom, to the savvy marketing campaigns that cemented its place in the collective consciousness, the story of Wisconsin’s brandy obsession is a fascinating one.
And at the heart of it all is the Wisconsin Old Fashioned, a cocktail that has become a cultural touchstone, a delicious bridge between past and present. As I raise my glass to this iconic drink, I can’t help but wonder what other cocktail legends are waiting to be uncovered, their stories just begging to be told.
One thing’s for sure: as I continue my Cocktail Chronicles, I know I’m in for a wild ride. But with a trusty brandy old fashioned by my side, I’m confident I can handle whatever twist or turn comes my way. Cheers to the next chapter!
