Uncovering the Complexity of Agave Spirits
As I sip my mezcal, the smoky notes dance across my palate, leaving a delightful tingle that lingers long after each sip. It’s a sensation I’ve grown quite familiar with over the years, but one that never ceases to captivate me. You see, I’ve been on a journey of discovery when it comes to agave spirits — a journey that has taken me from the bustling streets of London to the sun-drenched hills of Oaxaca, Mexico. And let me tell you, it’s been one wild ride.
When I first encountered mezcal in Mexico City all those years ago, I was immediately enthralled. The complex flavors, the rich history, the vibrant culture — it all captivated me in a way I couldn’t quite explain. And as I returned home to London, I was determined to share this newfound passion with my fellow spirit enthusiasts.
The Mezcal Renaissance in London
At the time, mezcal was still a relative rarity in London’s drinking scene. Sure, a few savvy bartenders and well-traveled souls had managed to get their hands on the elusive spirit, but for the most part, it remained a niche curiosity. That is, until a serendipitous encounter at a hidden bar called Hackney 64, also known as Mezcleria Quiquiriqui.
It was there that I stumbled upon Melanie Symonds, a mezcal evangelist who had opened the city’s first dedicated mezcaleria. Melanie had fallen in love with mezcal during a trip to Oaxaca, and she was hell-bent on bringing the spirit’s magic to London. Despite the challenges of sourcing and importing the often hard-to-find bottles, she had managed to curate an impressive selection, and her passion for educating customers was utterly infectious.
As I sipped my way through Melanie’s menu, I was struck by the sheer diversity of flavors and production methods represented. From the earthy, smoky espadín to the bright, herbaceous tobala, each mezcal offered a unique story and a distinct set of tasting notes. It was a revelation, and I knew I had to dive deeper.
Exploring the Agave Rabbit Hole
Armed with a newfound enthusiasm, I set out to learn as much as I could about the world of agave spirits. I reached out to the Mexican Embassy, pitching a photography project that would explore the cultural and gastronomic significance of mezcal. To my delight, they were eager to support my endeavor, and soon I found myself on a plane to Oaxaca, where I would immerse myself in the heart of mezcal country.
During my time in Oaxaca, I had the privilege of visiting distilleries, chatting with mezcaleros, and witnessing the meticulous, labor-intensive process of crafting this remarkable spirit. I marveled at the intricate dance between tradition and innovation, as I encountered producers who were pushing the boundaries of what was possible with agave.
One such producer was Danzantes Los Nahuales, who also presented their single-village expression, Alipus. I was thrilled to discover that Alipus was already making waves in London, stocked at the popular Wahaca restaurant chain. Seizing the opportunity, I proposed a collaboration that would showcase my photographic work alongside the brand’s pioneering efforts in the city.
Establishing a Mezcal Foothold in London
The exhibition was a resounding success, and it marked an important milestone in my journey to integrate mezcal into London’s drinking culture. I had the pleasure of connecting with other key players in the city’s nascent agave scene, including Jon Anders, Tom Bullock, Tom Bartram, and Melanie Symonds. Together, we were collective pioneers, determined to educate and inspire a new generation of mezcal enthusiasts.
One individual who left a lasting impression was Tom Bartram, the head of agave acquisitions for Specialty Brands. During a research trip to Mexico, Tom had immersed himself in the intricacies of production, spending countless hours in distilleries and meticulously documenting the subtle nuances of each expression. His passion and expertise were truly inspiring, and I knew that I had found a kindred spirit in this mission to elevate the status of agave spirits in London.
The Rise of Agave Ambassadors
As the years passed, the mezcal scene in London continued to evolve, with more bars, restaurants, and dedicated mezcalerias popping up across the city. One such ambassador was Gaby Moncada, who had caught the mezcal bug while working in a bar called Salvador and Amanda in Covent Garden. Gaby, originally from Guadalajara, Mexico, had witnessed the transformation of the tequila category from a niche curiosity to a widely celebrated spirit, and she was determined to ensure that mezcal would follow a similar trajectory.
Gaby’s role as the agave ambassador for Specialty Brands allowed her to share her passion and knowledge with a growing community of bartenders and consumers. She emphasized the importance of education, noting that as mezcal’s popularity grew, it was crucial to instill a deep appreciation for the spirit’s cultural significance and production methods. By fostering this understanding, Gaby and her fellow ambassadors hoped to steer the market away from the misguided perception of agave spirits as merely a means to get drunk quickly.
Innovative Approaches to Agave Education
Alongside the work of seasoned industry veterans, a new generation of mezcal enthusiasts emerged, driven by a desire to share their passion in novel and engaging ways. One such individual was Jon Darby, who had left his corporate finance job in London to pursue his newfound love for agave spirits. Launching the Sin Gusano brand and the MAS Mezcal Appreciation Society, Jon set out to introduce Londoners to the incredible diversity and nuances of mezcal.
Jon’s Sin Gusano pop-ups offered tasting flights that highlighted the unique characteristics of each expression, from the bright and floral to the earthy and smoky. By engaging directly with customers and sharing the stories behind the spirits, Jon was able to cultivate a deeper appreciation for the craft and artistry that goes into every bottle. His passion was infectious, and the growing crowds at his events were a testament to the thirst for authentic mezcal education in London.
Bringing Agave Spirits to the Forefront
As the mezcal movement gained momentum, other bars and restaurants began to take notice, recognizing the potential of these captivating spirits. One such establishment is Kol, a Michelin-starred restaurant in London that boasts a dedicated mezcaleria. Kol’s bar manager, Matthias Ingelmann, has made it his mission to immerse his team and customers in the world of agave, forging connections with producers in Mexico and hosting collaborative events with renowned international bartenders. The result is a meticulously curated menu that offers a truly impressive array of mezcals, tequilas, raicillas, and sotols, each expertly paired with the restaurant’s award-winning Mexican-inspired cuisine.
But Kol is just one example of the growing number of establishments that are embracing the complexity and diversity of agave spirits. Across the city, venues like Hacha and Doña are pushing the boundaries, offering innovative cocktails and educational experiences that cater to the discerning tastes of a new generation of spirit enthusiasts.
Uncovering the Feminine Side of Mezcal
As I delve deeper into the world of agave, I’ve been struck by the integral role that women have played in shaping the industry, both in Mexico and here in London. From Melanie Symonds and Thea Cumming, the co-founders of the now-defunct London Mezcal Week, to the trailblazing bartenders and brand owners like Dangerous Don and Quiquiriqui, the feminine influence is undeniable.
In an effort to shine a light on these remarkable women, I’m currently working on a photography exhibition titled “Mujeres y Mezcal,” which will be hosted at one of London’s newest mezcalerias, Mayahuel. By capturing the stories and experiences of the female pioneers in this industry, I hope to inspire others and challenge the often male-dominated narratives that have historically dominated the world of spirits.
A Collective Celebration of Agave
As I sip my mezcal and gaze out over the vibrant scene of London’s mezcal bars and restaurants, I can’t help but feel a sense of pride and excitement. What was once a niche curiosity has now blossomed into a thriving community of passionate enthusiasts, each contributing to the elevation of agave spirits in their own unique way.
From the seasoned industry veterans to the innovative newcomers, the collective effort to educate, inspire, and celebrate the nuances of these remarkable spirits has been nothing short of remarkable. And as I continue on my own journey of discovery, I can’t wait to see what the future holds for the ever-evolving world of agave in London.
So, my fellow cocktail connoisseurs, let’s raise a glass to the complexity, the history, and the sheer artistry that goes into every pour. Because in the end, the true joy of exploring agave spirits lies not just in the flavors, but in the stories and the connections we make along the way.
