Barley, Yeast, and Prohibition: How Speakeasies Kept the Beer Flowing

Barley, Yeast, and Prohibition: How Speakeasies Kept the Beer Flowing

The Dark Days of Prohibition

I’ll never forget the day the lights went out on America’s brewers. It was January 17, 1920 – a dark day that would go down in infamy. With the stroke of midnight, over a thousand producers were swiftly banned from selling their most prized commodity: alcohol. Prohibition had arrived, and it hit the beer industry like a freight train.

As I look back on that fateful night, I can almost hear the collective gasp that echoed through the halls of breweries across the country. These were the titans of the trade – Anheuser-Busch, Coors, Miller, Pabst, Yuengling – faced with an unprecedented challenge. How on earth were they going to keep the beer flowing when the very foundation of their businesses had been ripped out from under them?

Adapting to the Dry Spell

Well, my friends, these brewers were nothing if not resilient. They quickly realized that in order to survive, they’d have to adapt – and adapt they did. According to historian Maureen Ogle, out of the over 1,300 brewers in operation in 1915, no more than 100 managed to weather the storm of Prohibition. But those that did? They were the true innovators of their time.

Take Anheuser-Busch, for instance. See, old man Adolphus Busch had been preparing for this day since the 1890s. Even before Prohibition hit, he had his chief chemist develop a non-alcoholic “cereal beverage” that tasted just like beer. They called it Bevo, and it was an immediate hit, selling over 22 million cases in its first six months.

But the Busch family didn’t stop there. Oh no, they got creative. They started rolling out all sorts of non-alcoholic products – everything from infant formula to frozen eggs to carbonated coffee and tea. And get this – they even built their own line of campers and boats! Talk about thinking outside the brew kettle.

The Porcelain Pivot

Now, the Coors family took a slightly different approach. See, old Adolph Coors had gotten his start in Colorado, where beer sales had been banned a full four years before the rest of the country. So what did he do? He doubled down on his other business venture – a ceramics and pottery company that tapped into Colorado’s rich clay deposits.

Coors Porcelain, as it was known, started churning out everything from dinnerware to spark plugs. And you know what? It absolutely thrived. In fact, it’s still going strong today as the largest engineered ceramics manufacturer in the world. Talk about making lemonade out of lemons – or should I say, beer mugs out of clay?

Brewers and Cheese-Makers

Meanwhile, down in Milwaukee, the Miller and Pabst families were getting really creative. Miller Brewing put out their own version of near-beer, calling it “Vivo,” and started dabbling in soft drinks, malted milk, and malt syrup. But their real secret weapon? Real estate and investments. See, they’d owned a bunch of saloons back in the day, and when Prohibition hit, they sold off those prime locations and pocketed the profits.

As for Pabst? Well, they got into the cheese business. That’s right, folks – during the Prohibition era, Pabst Brewing became one of the largest producers of a processed cheese spread called “Pabst-ett.” And get this – they even aged it in the brewery’s old ice cellars! Talk about diversification at its finest.

The Yuengling Way

But perhaps the most impressive story of survival comes from America’s oldest brewery, Yuengling, down in Pottsville, Pennsylvania. See, the Yuengling family had been in the beer business since 1829 – long before Prohibition was even a glimmer in anyone’s eye. And when the 18th Amendment came knocking, they were ready.

How did they do it, you ask? Well, they got creative – just like the rest of ’em. They started producing near-beer, of course, but they also branched out into a rather unexpected product: ice cream. Yep, that’s right – Yuengling Ice Cream was born during the Prohibition era, and it helped the family-owned business stay afloat until the repeal of the 18th Amendment in 1933.

As one sixth-generation Yuengling put it, “As America’s oldest brewery, we have a long history of perseverance.” And boy, did they ever prove it.

The Speakeasy Resurgence

But for all the ingenuity and adaptability of these brewers, there was one thing they couldn’t control: the thirst of the American people. See, Prohibition may have outlawed the manufacture and sale of alcohol, but it couldn’t stop folks from finding ways to get their hands on the good stuff.

Enter the speakeasy – those illicit, underground watering holes that popped up all over the country. And let me tell you, these places were popular. In New York City alone, there were said to be over 30,000 of them! It was like a secret society of booze-lovers, with secret passwords, hidden entrances, and watchful eyes at the door.

And Truckee, California was no exception. This little mountain town became a hub for speakeasies, with bootleggers and gangsters making it a prime spot for distribution. Folks would sneak into basements, back rooms, and hidden compartments to get their hands on the good stuff – everything from “jackass brandy” to “bathtub gin.”

The Rise of the Gangster

Of course, where there’s a demand for illicit booze, there’s bound to be organized crime. And Truckee was no stranger to that. See, the town became a safe haven for some of the biggest gangsters of the era – names like “Pretty Boy” Floyd and “Machine Gun” Kelly. These fellas were happy to take advantage of Truckee’s lax law enforcement and thriving speakeasy scene.

As one local historian put it, “The law either was paid off or so ineffective that mobsters and bootleggers felt safe around the area.” And you better believe the brewers were more than happy to work with these shady characters, as long as it kept the beer flowing.

The Repeal and Beyond

But the good times couldn’t last forever. In 1933, the 21st Amendment finally repealed Prohibition, and the brewers could breathe a collective sigh of relief. Well, almost. See, even after the repeal, taxes on alcohol remained sky-high, so the bootlegging and under-the-table sales continued – albeit on a smaller scale.

And get this – even today, some states and counties still maintain their own prohibition laws, keeping the legacy of the noble experiment alive. But for the most part, the dark days of Prohibition are behind us, and the beer industry has bounced back stronger than ever.

As I raise a glass to the resilience of these brewers, I can’t help but marvel at the ingenuity and sheer determination that kept the beer flowing, even in the face of the most daunting of challenges. From Coors’ pivot to ceramics to Pabst’s foray into the cheese business, these folks proved that when the going gets tough, the tough get creative.

So next time you enjoy a cold one at The Up & Under Pub, remember the barley, the yeast, and the speakeasies that kept the suds flowing, even in the darkest of times. Cheers to that!

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