The Immortal Art of Brewing
I remember the first time I tasted a traditional farmhouse ale. It was like stepping into a time machine, transporting me to a bygone era of rustic charm and time-honored brewing techniques. The aromas were intoxicating – a symphony of earthy grains, herbal notes, and a subtle fruitiness that danced across my palate. It was a revelation, a reminder that the art of brewing is deeply rooted in ancient traditions that continue to shape the flavors we savor today.
As I delved deeper into the world of traditional brewing, I uncovered a rich tapestry of stories, each one a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of those who came before us. From the Egyptians’ ingenious use of bread-making as a precursor to malting, to the Nordic countries’ embrace of kveik yeast and juniper-infused ales, the diverse methods and ingredients that have shaped the evolution of beer are truly awe-inspiring.
Uncovering the Mysteries of Ancient Brewing
My fascination with traditional brewing techniques began with a serendipitous email from the Hood Museum of Art at Dartmouth College. They had an intriguing artifact in their collection – a fully intact alleged beer jar dating back to the Old Kingdom of ancient Egypt, around 2300 BC. The museum asked if I would be willing to give a presentation on ancient Egyptian beer-making, and I eagerly accepted.
As I delved into the research, I realized that unraveling the mysteries of ancient brewing was no easy task. Egyptologists had long called these jars “beer jars,” but the unexpected presence of a hole in the bottom of the Dartmouth artifact raised questions about their true purpose. It wasn’t until I connected with Dr. Teodozja Rzeuska, a Polish archaeologist, that the puzzle began to unfold.
Dr. Rzeuska’s recent excavations in an Old Kingdom necropolis had uncovered an array of similar jars with purposeful holes. These, she determined, were not beer vessels at all, but rather ritual containers for the botanical remains of burned funeral offerings. Only the jars without holes were indeed used for brewing.
Undeterred, I pressed on, scouring the available literature on ancient brewing techniques. Works by scholars like Patrick McGovern and Ian Hornsey provided invaluable insights, but even they acknowledged the ambiguity surrounding the precise details of ancient brewing processes.
Bringing Ancient Brews to Life
Determined to recreate a Pharaonic brew, I enlisted the help of two collaborators: Peter Egelston, the owner of the Portsmouth Brewery, and Tod Mott, the brewery’s then-head brewer. Together, we embarked on a journey to bring an ancient beer to life.
The first step was to choose a recipe. After scouring the available sources, I settled on a 1926 essay by E. Huber, titled “Bier und Bierbereitung bei den Ägyptern” (Beer and Beer Preparation among the Egyptians), which outlined a potential brewing process from the time between 2575 and 1070 BC.
Replicating the ancient techniques, however, was no easy feat. We quickly realized that we couldn’t faithfully recreate the bread-making process used by the Egyptians, as we lacked the proper facilities. Instead, we opted for a more modern single-infusion mash process, while still aiming to capture the essence of the ancient brews.
The ingredient selection proved equally challenging. The heirloom wheat varieties used in ancient Egypt, such as emmer and spelt, were difficult to come by in their modern equivalents. We settled on a combination of pale and chocolate spelt malts, floor-malted Pilsner and wheat malts, and a selection of specialty malts to achieve the desired color, flavor, and body.
But the real test came when we added the traditional adjuncts – dates and honey. Unsure of the precise quantities, we made an educated guess, incorporating around 4 pounds of hand-macerated dates and 3.7 pounds of honey per barrel. The result was a deeply complex and subtly sweet brew, with a refreshing, almost effervescent quality.
Honoring the Past, Embracing the Future
As I sipped the Pharaoh Ale, I couldn’t help but marvel at the way these ancient brewing techniques had shaped the modern landscape of beer. The absence of hops, a staple in today’s craft brews, allowed the natural flavors of the grains, dates, and honey to shine, creating a truly unique and captivating drinking experience.
It’s a testament to the enduring power of tradition that these ancient brewing methods continue to inspire and influence the way we approach beer-making today. From the use of kveik yeast in Nordic farmhouse ales to the revival of sahti, a traditional Finnish farmhouse beer, brewers around the world are tapping into the rich history of brewing to craft truly exceptional and distinctive beers.
At The Up & Under Pub, we celebrate this connection to the past, embracing the ancient techniques and ingredients that have shaped the beer world. Whether it’s the robust, malt-forward character of our porter or the tantalizing citrus and herbal notes of our IPA, the influence of traditional brewing methods is palpable in every sip.
Discovering the Depths of Flavor
As I delve deeper into the world of traditional brewing, I’m constantly amazed by the depth and complexity of the flavors that can be achieved. Take, for instance, the intricate world of sahti, a Finnish farmhouse ale that has captivated beer enthusiasts around the globe.
The sahti-making process is a true labor of love, harkening back to a time when brewers relied on their senses and intuition rather than precise measurements and technology. The use of juniper branches as the filtering medium, the addition of baker’s yeast for fermentation, and the distinctive flavor profile imparted by the use of rye and other heirloom grains all contribute to the uniqueness of this ancient brew.
I’ve had the privilege of visiting the sahti heartlands of Finland, where I’ve witnessed firsthand the reverence and dedication of the brewers who keep this tradition alive. From the stately old farmhouses to the centuries-old brewing equipment, every aspect of the sahti-making process feels like a living, breathing connection to the past.
Embracing the Future of Traditional Brewing
As the beer landscape continues to evolve, I’m heartened to see more and more brewers embracing the principles of traditional brewing. Whether it’s the resurgence of kveik yeast in Norway, the revival of gotlandsdricke in Sweden, or the exploration of historical malting techniques in the Pacific Northwest, there’s a growing appreciation for the rich tapestry of brewing heritage that has shaped the industry.
At The Up & Under Pub, we’re committed to honoring these traditions while also pushing the boundaries of modern beer-making. Our brewers are constantly experimenting with ancient ingredients and techniques, blending them with innovative approaches to create truly unique and captivating brews.
From the earthy, spice-forward character of our juniper-infused ale to the robust, malt-driven complexity of our porter, each sip tells a story – a tale of resilience, innovation, and a deep reverence for the art of brewing. And as we continue to tap into the well of tradition, I can’t help but wonder what other wonders the past has in store for us, waiting to be rediscovered and reimagined for the modern palate.
So, the next time you raise a glass at The Up & Under Pub, take a moment to savor the flavors that have been centuries in the making. For in every pint, you’ll find the echoes of ancient brewers, their ingenuity and passion filtering through the ages to shape the very beers we enjoy today.
