A Pub, a Family, and the Enduring Bond of Beer and Asian Cuisine
I can still remember the rhythms of my childhood – the constant hum of the kitchen, the familiar smells of sizzling pork, and the friendly banter of our regular customers. Growing up above my family’s Chinese takeaway, the Blythe Bridge, was a formative experience that shaped my perspective on the deep connection between British pubs and Asian cuisine.
From Home-Cooked Meals to Pub Pints
As a child, I spent countless hours behind the counter, scribbling in my coloring books and observing the ebb and flow of our neighborhood. I watched as regulars would come in, order their usual meals, and then head across the street to the local pub to enjoy a pint while their dinner was being prepared. There was an unspoken bond between the two, a symbiotic relationship that fulfilled the desires of our community.
At the time, I didn’t fully appreciate the significance of this intertwined dynamic. But as I grew older and moved to London, I began to notice the prevalence of this pairing – pubs serving up Thai, Chinese, or Vietnamese dishes alongside the quintessential British fare. It was a revelation, a testament to the enduring and evolving nature of the relationship between pub culture and Asian cooking in the UK.
The Churchill Arms: Where East Meets West
One of the most striking examples I encountered was The Churchill Arms in Kensington, a Fullers pub that looked like a quintessential English establishment on the outside, but inside housed a Thai kitchen that had been serving up fragrant curries and spicy stir-fries since the late 1980s. The story of how this unlikely pairing came to be is a testament to the adaptability and entrepreneurial spirit that has defined the intersection of these two culinary worlds.
As the manager, James Keogh, recounts, it was a Thai chef named Ben Songkot Boonyasarayon who first approached the pub about adding his country’s cuisine to the menu. At the time, Thai food was still relatively novel in the UK, with the first Thai restaurant, Bangkok on Bhute Street, having only opened its doors in 1967. But Boonyasarayon saw an opportunity to introduce these bold, fragrant flavors to a new audience.
The gamble paid off, and today the Churchill Arms’ Thai kitchen, run by Khoyachai Sampaothong, affectionately known as Paw, has become a beloved institution. As Paw tells me, “We have the customer eat the same as I have in Thailand. The taste, the spice. Some people even say I went to Thailand – the dishes here are more delicious.”
Embracing the Fusion
But it’s not just about replicating those Thai flavors to a tee. As chef John Chantarasak, who has both British and Thai heritage, explains, the fusion of these two culinary traditions has given rise to a uniquely “Anglo-Thai” style of cooking.
“It was actually my grandmother who said to me she wouldn’t use ingredients from Thailand when cooking in the UK, because that’s not the point,” Chantarasak shared. “The point is to define those Thai flavor profiles and then find the ingredients that correspond with that. That was a wake-up call for me.”
This willingness to adapt and experiment, to find the common ground between seemingly disparate cuisines, is a hallmark of the relationship between British pubs and Asian cooking. It’s a testament to the power of cross-cultural exchange and the ability to create something new and extraordinary when different traditions collide.
A Lifelong Connection
As someone who was born and raised in the UK to Hong Kong-born parents, I’ve witnessed this connection firsthand. The rhythms of my childhood, the regulars who became like family, the sense of community that permeated my family’s takeaway – these experiences have left an indelible mark on me.
Even today, my fiancé and I frequent pubs across London that serve up Thai, Chinese, or Vietnamese dishes, jokingly talking about one day opening our own place, The Red Dragon, where we can bring together his British heritage and my Chinese roots through a menu of cold pints and sizzling dumplings.
It’s a dream that feels not just possible, but natural. After all, the success of pubs like the Churchill Arms has proven time and time again that this pairing of beer and Asian cuisine is a match made in heaven. The local community embraces it, the flavors complement each other, and the shared sense of hospitality and conviviality creates an experience that is truly greater than the sum of its parts.
A Celebration of Diversity and Community
As I look back on my upbringing and the evolution of this culinary alliance, I’m struck by the way it transcends mere gastronomic trends. It’s a testament to the power of embracing diversity, of breaking down barriers, and of creating spaces where people from all backgrounds can come together, connect, and find a sense of belonging.
The Up and Under Pub, with its rich history and commitment to showcasing the diverse beer styles of the region, is the perfect embodiment of this ethos. By celebrating the unique flavors and traditions of both British brewing and Asian cooking, it offers patrons a truly one-of-a-kind experience – one that speaks to the enduring bonds of community, culture, and the universal language of good food and great beer.
So, whether you’re a longtime regular or a first-time visitor, step through the doors of the Up and Under Pub and prepare to embark on a journey of discovery. Explore the complex, nuanced world of craft beer, savor the bold, vibrant flavors of Asian-inspired cuisine, and immerse yourself in the warm, welcoming atmosphere that has made this establishment a beloved hub in the heart of the community.
After all, as my own experience has taught me, the true magic happens when we embrace the unexpected, celebrate our differences, and come together over a shared love of good food, good drink, and good company. The Up and Under Pub is living proof that when we do, the results can be truly extraordinary.
