The Cocktail Renaissance: Where Creativity Meets Craftsmanship
You know, when I first heard about a bartender at an art museum who was himself an exhibit – someone who crafted molecular cocktails in which the drinker’s psychological mood was a key ingredient – I’ll admit, I sort of rolled my eyes. I mean, really? Complicated, novel variations on mixing a drink had gotten that out of control and comical?
Little did I know, there was already a substantial foundation for such “mixological tomfoolery” reaching as far back as the early 20th century. At the 2014 Tales of the Cocktail seminar, “Italian Futurism 1909-1944: ArtDrink,” introduced by Haus Alpenz founder Eric Seed and featuring speakers Roberto Bava (Managing Director at Giulio Cocchi Spumanti) and Fulvio Piccinino (author of the upcoming book “The Futurist Mixology”), I learned that the fiddly foundations of “spray 10ppm lavender salmon bitters into 64 degree air one hour later in a whisper, suggest to a coupe glass the emotion of that spritz as it fell to earth” – the theatrical bartending that we might now call our modern version of Tom Cruise flipping bottles around – grew from Italian Futurists, a movement I’d known as touching art, design, architecture, and literature, but had no idea also tried its hand at mixing drinks.
A Radical Break from Tradition
The Futurists, founded in 1909 by poet Filippo Tommaso Marinetti, sought nothing less than a complete and total break with the past – rather radical an idea, given that Italy possessed no small quantity of historical past – and to force Italy and humanity into the future. It was, in many ways, a reaction to the Decadence movement championed by writers like Gabrielle D’Annunzio, which stressed romanticism and rosy longing. Marinetti, in contrast, railed against such winsome nostalgia. He thought Italy should demolish the Colosseum, for example, and ban that tired old food known as spaghetti. Food, he believed, should come in awesome pill form. Construction should follow function and use modern materials like plastic and steel and glass. He admired speed, noise, and youth – airplanes and automobiles and industry.
The Birth of “Polibibita”
Lesser known, however, were the Futurists’ forays into cocktails, or “polibibita” as they called them. For Futurist drink makers – and keep in mind, almost no one who created Futurist cocktails had experience as a bartender, as some of the combinations can show – cocktails should not be about familiar ingredients or flavor combinations. “One of sour, two of sweet? How about two of bitter, one of bitter, one of machine oil, and something to do with two pieces of sheet metal being dragged across one another?” Polibibita were meant to evoke a reaction, inspire thought, perhaps even shock and outrage the drinker. Anything to shake off the fetters of the past.
And they were meant to inspire certain philosophical reactions or physical tasks: decisoni to aid in making important decisions, inventine refreshing and intoxicating so that the imbiber will be inspired to new ideas and new ways of thinking, prestoinletto for when it’s cold outside, guerrainletto or “war in bed” for when you need to be energetic and virile for a night’s raucous lovemaking, and paceinletto or “peace in bed” when – as Fulvio Piccinino described it – “you are alone in bed and have no partner. You just need to fall asleep.”
The Ephemeral Nature of Futurist Cocktails
The Futurist movement didn’t survive much past the outbreak of World War II, and while their art, design, and philosophy remains in the public consciousness, their food and drink theory is more obscure, even among people who specialize in obscure theories of food and drink. This is probably partly because some of the cocktails were just horrible. But it’s also because part of the philosophy of mixing polibibta was that no recipes or methods should ever be written down. To do so would lock the drinker into a rigid formula, eliminating the possibility that making a mistake could result in the creation of an entirely new libation.
And so, while general descriptions and components survive – probably etched by robots with acid-tipped pens onto thin sheets of metal, the material Marinetti thought books should be made from – portions and methods were never recorded. In fact, it has been Piccinino’s mission to research these Futurist cocktails and, much to the consternation of Marinetti’s ghost, I’m sure, develop sound – or at least interesting – polibibita recipes out of the scant info the Futurists left behind.
Experiencing the Futurist Cocktail
To illustrate the points of the seminar, we were served a variety of cocktails. Most of them were at least somewhat familiar, using ingredients like Campari and other popular Italian bitters. We were even given small strips of sandpaper, cork, and satin so that we might indulge in tactile reaction to each of the drinks.
But then came the last one – the one Piccinino and Bava had warned us about, snickered about serving us. “I think I should film your reaction to it,” Piccinino joked. And so we received a colorless cocktail, using grappa as its base, maybe ever so slightly clouded by the inclusion of a triangle of anchovy floating in it.
And I have to say, if the Futurists’ idea was that my polibibita should inspire a strong reaction and spark deep thought – in at least some regard – they succeeded. My strong reaction was desperately reaching for the Campari cocktail to wash away the taste of the last one. And my deep thought was, “I am enriched by this experience and look forward to never drinking a fish cocktail ever again.”
The Modern Mixology Movement
While the Futurist cocktail experiment may have been a fleeting, avant-garde trend, the spirit of their pursuit – to challenge conventions, push boundaries, and evoke visceral reactions through the art of drink-making – is very much alive and thriving in the modern mixology movement.
Today, bartenders around the world are elevating the craft of cocktail creation to new heights, blending cutting-edge techniques, unexpected flavor profiles, and a deep understanding of chemistry and sensory perception to deliver drinking experiences that are as much a feast for the senses as they are for the palate.
At The Up & Under Pub, for example, our team of talented mixologists are constantly experimenting with innovative ingredients and methods to craft cocktails that not only tantalise the taste buds, but also captivate the imagination. From molecular gastronomy-inspired libations that play with texture and temperature, to botanical-infused elixirs that transport you to lush, far-flung corners of the globe, every drink we serve is a unique work of art.
Embracing the Unexpected
Perhaps one of the most exciting aspects of modern mixology is its openness to the unexpected. Just as the Futurists sought to shatter preconceptions and evoke new ways of thinking, today’s most boundary-pushing bartenders are unafraid to venture into uncharted territory, blending unusual flavors, pushing the limits of technique, and challenging drinkers to approach the cocktail experience with a sense of curiosity and wonder.
Take, for instance, our signature “Lavender Limelight” – a refreshing gin-based concoction that marries the delicate floral notes of lavender with the bright, citrusy punch of lime. What makes this drink truly unique, however, is the way we incorporate an aroma therapy element, using essential oils to evoke a sense of calm and relaxation in the drinker. It’s a cocktail that engages not just the palate, but the mind and emotions as well.
Or consider our “Molecular Mule” – a vodka-based twist on the classic Moscow Mule that plays with temperature and texture. By infusing the ginger beer with liquid nitrogen, we’re able to create a frozen, sorbet-like base that melts on the tongue, releasing a burst of spicy, effervescent flavor. It’s a wholly unexpected drinking experience that delights and surprises at every sip.
Elevating the Craft
Of course, the modern mixology movement is about more than just flashy techniques and avant-garde flavor combinations. At its core, it’s a celebration of the bartender’s craft – a recognition of the skill, knowledge, and artistry required to transform humble spirits, juices, and syrups into something truly extraordinary.
At The Up & Under Pub, our bartenders are not only masters of their craft, but also passionate storytellers, weaving the history and provenance of each ingredient into the cocktail experience. Whether it’s highlighting the complex, terroir-driven flavors of a small-batch gin or showcasing the unique artisanal bitters crafted by a local producer, every drink is an opportunity to educate, inspire, and delight our guests.
And it’s not just about the final product, either. The theatrical flair of modern bartending – the precise measurements, the delicate garnishes, the dramatic flourishes – has become an integral part of the cocktail experience, captivating diners and heightening their sense of anticipation and wonder.
Fostering a Culture of Creativity
Perhaps most importantly, the modern mixology movement is fostering a culture of creativity and experimentation that is transforming the hospitality industry as a whole. By pushing the boundaries of what’s possible behind the bar, these innovative bartenders are inspiring their peers to think outside the box, to embrace new techniques and flavors, and to elevate the art of hospitality to new heights.
At The Up & Under Pub, we’re proud to be part of this exciting evolution, committed to cultivating a sense of wonder and exploration in every cocktail we serve. Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or a curious newcomer, we invite you to join us on a journey of culinary discovery, where the only limit is your imagination.
So the next time you find yourself craving a cocktail, why not step outside your comfort zone and embrace the unexpected? Who knows, you might just stumble upon a Futurist-inspired elixir that will change the way you think about drinking forever.
