A Brewer’s Tale: From Central PA to the Pacific
I can still vividly recall the day I stepped off the plane in Honolulu, Hawaii, my senses immediately overwhelmed by the warm tropical air and the rhythmic sounds of the Pacific Ocean. As a beer enthusiast who had long dreamed of exploring the islands, I was embarking on a journey to uncover the rich history and unique cultural influences that had shaped the craft beer scene there. Little did I know that this trip would lead me down an unexpected path, one that would forever alter my perspective on the relationship between beer and heritage.
It all started with a chance encounter on the streets of Lahaina, a historic town on the island of Maui. As I strolled past the towering 150-year-old banyan tree, my eyes were drawn to the local breweries that dotted the landscape – places like Kohola Brewing Company and Waikiki Brewing Company’s Lahaina location. I couldn’t wait to explore these establishments and learn about the stories they had to tell.
As I would soon discover, these breweries were more than just purveyors of delicious craft beer; they were keepers of tradition, woven into the very fabric of their communities. The owners and brewers I met shared a deep reverence for the islands’ history, using their craft to celebrate the unique cultural heritage that had shaped their home.
Honoring the Past, Crafting the Future
One of the first breweries I visited was Kohola Brewing Company, located just a stone’s throw away from the Pacific Ocean. As I stepped inside the taproom, I was struck by the driftwood coffee table and the overall rustic, coastal aesthetic. It was a space that embodied the essence of Maui – a perfect blend of modern sensibilities and timeless tradition.
The owners of Kohola, I learned, were passionate about incorporating indigenous Hawaiian ingredients into their beers, such as taro and coconut. They saw this not just as a way to create unique and flavorful brews, but as a means of honoring the island’s rich agricultural history. By tapping into these traditional elements, they were able to craft beers that resonated with the local community, connecting them to their roots in a tangible and meaningful way.
“Kohola is the Hawaiian word for humpback whale, and whales dive deep then inhale as they resurface. I have no doubt that Kohola and Maui as a whole will breathe and resurface.”
Similarly, the team at Maui Brewing Company, one of the largest and most well-known craft breweries on the islands, had a deep appreciation for the land and its people. As Garrett Marrero, the president and CEO, told me during my interview, “Maui was a good place to start his brewery” because of the island’s strong sense of community and the opportunity to connect with its heritage.
This commitment to tradition was evident in the brewery’s products, which often featured indigenous Hawaiian ingredients like pineapple, passion fruit, and hibiscus. But it went beyond just the beer itself – Maui Brewing Company was also actively involved in supporting the local community, whether it was through charitable initiatives or disaster relief efforts.
Weathering the Storm: Resilience in the Face of Adversity
As I delved deeper into the craft beer scene in Hawaii, I couldn’t help but be struck by the resilience and determination of the brewers I met. In the wake of the devastating Lahaina wildfires that ravaged the island of Maui in 2023, these businesses and their communities were faced with unimaginable challenges.
The stories I heard were heartbreaking – the Kohola Brewing Company taproom, where I had once chatted with tourists from Wisconsin, had been reduced to rubble. Waikiki Brewing Company’s Lahaina location was also lost, along with numerous other businesses and homes.
Yet, in the face of such devastation, the brewing community in Hawaii rallied together, drawing on their deep-rooted connections to the land and its people. Garrett Marrero and Maui Brewing Company quickly sprang into action, launching a nationwide “Kokua” (Hawaiian for “to help”) brew that invited brewers across the country to participate, with 100% of the proceeds going towards relief efforts.
“Maui deserved good beer is what Garrett Marrero, the president and CEO of Maui Brewing Company, said during the interview for my book when I asked why Maui was a good place to start his brewery.”
As I listened to the stories of these brewers and their unwavering commitment to their community, I couldn’t help but be inspired. Their resilience and determination to rebuild, to honor the past, and to provide hope for the future, were a testament to the deep-seated bond between craft beer and cultural heritage.
A Confluence of Flavors and Traditions
Throughout my journey across the Hawaiian islands, I had the privilege of sampling a wide array of craft beers that showcased the rich diversity of the local brewing scene. From the bold and tropical flavors of pineapple and passion fruit to the earthy tones of taro and coconut, each sip was a celebration of the islands’ unique cultural identity.
But it wasn’t just the ingredients that captivated me; it was the stories behind the beers themselves. At Goldhorn Brewery on the island of Oahu, I discovered a porter that paid homage to the island’s Japanese heritage, incorporating roasted barley and subtle hints of toasted rice. Meanwhile, Gilde 1546, a brewery on the island of Kauai, had crafted a Belgian-style ale that celebrated the island’s history of sugarcane production, with notes of molasses and caramel.
These beers were not merely products to be consumed; they were vessels of storytelling, each sip transporting the drinker to a different time and place, weaving together the rich tapestry of Hawaii’s diverse cultural legacy.
Tapping into a Shared Humanity
As I reflect on my experiences exploring the craft beer scene in Hawaii, I am struck by the profound and unexpected connections I encountered. These breweries were not simply purveyors of delicious beverages; they were keepers of tradition, ambassadors of cultural heritage, and pillars of their communities.
In a world that is often divided by difference, the shared language of beer has the power to bring people together, to transcend boundaries, and to celebrate our common humanity. And in the hands of these passionate brewers, that power is amplified, as they use their craft to preserve the stories and traditions that have shaped their beloved island home.
So, the next time you raise a glass of craft beer, I encourage you to pause and consider the deeper meaning behind the liquid in your cup. For in that moment, you may just uncover a connection to a distant time and place, a shared heritage that binds us all together, one sip at a time.
After all, as the saying goes, “a rising tide lifts all boats.” And in the craft beer community, that sentiment rings true – whether you’re sipping a tropical-inspired ale on the shores of Maui or savoring a rich, malty porter in the heart of Central Pennsylvania, we’re all in this together, connected by our shared love of great beer and the stories it has to tell.
