Venture Into Venice’s Bacari Wonderland
Ah, Venice – the enchanting city that’s stolen my heart more times than I can count. If there’s one thing I’ve perfected during my countless visits, it’s the art of the bacari crawl. These historic little watering holes are the heart and soul of Venetian culture, serving up mouthwatering cicchetti (that’s Venetian tapas to the uninitiated) and an endless flow of local wines and spritzes.
As I’ve shared before, a proper Venetian “wine stroll” – or “bacrawl” as I affectionately call it – is an absolute must-do during your time in this magical city. From the classic baccalà (creamed salt cod) to the mind-blowing sarde in saor (Venetian-style sardines), these bite-sized delights are the perfect accompaniment to an afternoon of bar-hopping and people-watching.
Now, I know what you’re thinking – with so many bacari scattered throughout Venice’s winding streets, where on earth do you even begin? Fear not, my fellow pub-crawling enthusiasts, for I have crafted the ultimate guide to navigating this glorious world of cicchetti and local libations.
Sipping and Snacking Through the Sestieri
Venice is divided into six neighborhoods, called sestieri, and each one has its own unique charm and culinary offerings. Let’s dive in, shall we?
Cannaregio: Where History and Hospitality Collide
Start your bacari adventure in the Cannaregio sestiere, home to the historic Jewish Ghetto and some of the city’s most authentic hideaways. Osteria al Tappo (1138) is a gem tucked away in this neighborhood, offering exceptional service and a delightful selection of wines and cicchetti. I couldn’t get enough of their polpette (fried meatballs) and the cozy courtyard setting.
Just a stone’s throw away, Aea Canevassa (Calle Foscari 3255) is run by a lovely Venetian couple, Donato and Roberta, who will welcome you with open arms and plates brimming with seasonal delicacies. Do yourself a favor and try their gamberi in saor – the prawn version of the classic sardine dish.
San Polo: Tradition and Innovation Collide
Venture over to the San Polo sestiere, where you’ll find a delightful mix of time-honored establishments and newer, more modern additions to the bacari scene. Cantina Do Mori (429) is a 15th-century institution that oozes old-world charm, with its huge wooden wine vats and a menu that reads like a love letter to Venetian gastronomy. I’m still dreaming about their ubriaco (“drunk”) cheese and the lardo (that’s literally fat on toast, you’re welcome) on crostini.
For a more contemporary twist, head to Bacaro al Ravano (Rughetta del Ravano 1047), where the young, sassy staff will have you dancing to Venetian reggae while you sample their inventive cicchetti, like the sublime mortadella and pistachio pesto number.
Dorsoduro: A Refined Retreat
When you’re ready for a more refined bacari experience, make your way to the Dorsoduro sestiere. Decanter Vineria (Strada Nova 4383) is a hidden gem, nestled between the tourist traps of the Strada Nova. Run by two passionate young locals, this place boasts an impressive wine selection and cicchetti that are truly works of art – I’m still dreaming about that spicy pumpkin and cavolo nero number.
San Marco: Where the Locals Mingle
No bacari crawl would be complete without a stop in the iconic San Marco sestiere. Cantina Vecia Carbonera (Rio Terà de la Maddalena 2329) is a quintessential Venetian watering hole, with its no-frills atmosphere and communal tables where you can rub elbows with the locals over a glass of house wine and a heaping plate of cicchetti.
Castello: A Hidden Gem Awaits
As you wind your way through the backstreets of the Castello sestiere, keep an eye out for Ostaria dai Zemei (Ruga Rialto 1045B), a tiny bacaro run by twin brothers, Franco and Giovanni. This place is a true foodie haven, with their expertly curated selection of cicchetti and mouthwatering salumi.
Dorsoduro (Again): A Delightful Reprise
And finally, let’s revisit Dorsoduro for one last stop at Alla Vedova (3912). This trattoria is renowned for its incredible local cuisine, but I’d be remiss if I didn’t insist you try their famous polpette – the fried meatballs here are simply divine.
Pacing Yourself: The Art of the Bacari Crawl
Now, I know what you’re thinking – that’s a lot of bacari to tackle in one day! And you’d be absolutely right. The key to a successful bacari crawl is to pace yourself. Remember, this is a marathon, not a sprint.
As I’ve mentioned before, the early bird catches the worm when it comes to bacari-hopping. Popping into a few spots earlier in the day will give you a more relaxed, authentic experience, especially during the busy summer months.
And don’t be afraid to make a meal out of your bacari crawl. Many of these establishments offer proper dining options, so feel free to settle in for a full-on feast of pasta, secondi, and, of course, plenty of wine.
Raising a Glass to the Wonders of Venetian Libations
No bacari crawl would be complete without a deep dive into the world of Venetian libations. Let’s start with the star of the show – Prosecco. This sparkling white wine is produced right here in the Veneto region, and it’s the perfect accompaniment to your cicchetti adventures. Refreshing, approachable, and incredibly affordable, Prosecco is a must-try.
Then there’s the iconic Spritz, a vibrantly colored cocktail that’s become the drink of choice for Venetians and visitors alike. Whether you opt for the classic Campari or Aperol version, or dare to try the more local Select, this bittersweet delight is the perfect thirst-quencher on a warm Venetian day.
And let’s not forget the region’s exceptional wines. From the bold, full-bodied Amarone to the lighter, more approachable Bardolino and Soave, the Veneto has a vino to suit every palate. Be sure to ask your bartender for their recommendations – they’ll be more than happy to guide you through the wonders of Venetian oenology.
Embracing the Bacari Way of Life
As you immerse yourself in the captivating world of Venetian bacari, remember to embrace the laid-back, convivial spirit that defines this cherished local tradition. Ditch the stuffy formalities, grab a perch at the bar, and start chatting with your fellow pub-crawlers – you never know what hidden gems or insider tips you might uncover.
And don’t be afraid to get a little tipsy in the process. After all, that’s all part of the bacari experience. Just be sure to pace yourself and leave room for plenty of cicchetti to soak up all that delicious Venetian wine.
So, what are you waiting for? Grab your map, put on your comfortable shoes, and get ready to embark on the ultimate pub-hopping adventure of a lifetime. Salute!
