Collaborating on the Cutting Edge of Craft
When I first became a self-proclaimed craft beer geek some six years ago, the Front Range of Colorado was at the very top of my dream destinations. Now, I know what you might be thinking – “California? The Pacific Northwest? Even Belgium itself?” But no, my heart was set on Colorado. The reason? A combination of sheer density and incredible variety.
In the span of just an hour-long drive between Denver and Fort Collins, there’s a staggering number of great breweries to visit. The options available to a thirsty traveler border on the absurd. The greater Denver area alone is home to more than 50 breweries, with plenty more in the planning stages. Factor in the breweries in Boulder and Fort Collins, and you’re swimming past 100 without even reaching the smaller towns in between. It’s one of the most beer-rich places on Earth.
So when I finally made the trek a few weeks ago, I was determined to soak in as much of this vibrant craft beer scene as possible. My goal? To uncover the art of collaboration happening in the brewhouses of Colorado. What I found was an industry constantly pushing the boundaries, where brewers come together to create something truly extraordinary.
Blending Visions in Boulder
My journey began in Boulder, where I had an early afternoon interview scheduled with the founder of Avery Brewing Company. As I stepped into the modest tap room, I was immediately struck by a recurring theme – these are not megaliths, but rather overgrown homebrew projects. Even the most well-known breweries have relatively small, unassuming spaces.
Over sweet potato tots and green chile, I sampled some of Avery’s taproom exclusives, including a session IPA and a coffee stout made with Ethiopian Yirgacheffe. But the real standout was a black saison called Currawong, brewed with Tasmanian pepper berries. It was a masterful blend of Belgian ale and peppery aromas, with a restrained flavor that never overwhelmed the base beer.
As my host Adam Avery explained, this spirit of experimentation and collaboration is central to the craft beer ethos. “Everywhere you go, there are constant reminders that craft breweries are still comparably small businesses, even those with national distribution,” he mused. “These are not megaliths, but overgrown homebrew projects.”
Leaving Avery, I stumbled upon Upslope Brewing Company‘s East Boulder expansion. Adorning the walls was a sprawling mural tracing the visual history of beer styles, citing local Colorado examples. Upslope has become one of Boulder’s most commercially successful breweries, thanks to their approachable flagship beers. But they also love to experiment and collaborate, as evidenced by the Belgian Blonde Ale I sampled, brewed in partnership with Italian craft brewer Birra Toccalmalto.
Pushing Boundaries at FATE
Next up was FATE Brewing Company, a curious blend of upscale gastropub and easygoing sports bar. The aesthetic was an odd mix of modernist art and classic rock, but the beer list was anything but conventional. I sampled a salted gose, high-gravity Belgians, and a coffee-infused IPA – all bold, adventurous creations.
As I dined on chicken and waffles dipped in spiced honey, I was particularly impressed by FATE’s Coffee Kolsch. At first, the idea of blending coffee and kolsch seemed incongruous, but the contrast between the light, crisp malt and the coffee flavor created a natural, inviting complement.
“Not everyone agreed with me on this one,” I admitted to my friends, “but I walked away very impressed. The kolsch base provided a clear delineation between the two flavors, allowing them to shine together in a way that just works.”
A Name Change and a Shared Passion
My next stop was Kettle & Stone Brewing Company (or rather, Vindication Brewing Company as they were now called). In the span of just a few weeks, the brewery had been forced to rebrand after receiving a cease-and-desist letter from California’s Stone Brewing. Rather than fight the industry giant, they opted for a cheeky new moniker – Vindication.
Despite the name change, the ethos remained the same – a focus on natural, chemical-free products. As I sipped on their red IPA called Go Ask Alice, I could taste the influence of the bold, fruity El Dorado hops. But the real gem was the humble Kolsch at Asher Brewing Company, just a few blocks from my lodgings. Creamy and lightly sweet, it reminded me that sometimes the best beer is the one you’re in the mood for at that moment.
As one local, Jon Paul, told me with a grin: “The best beer from any given brewery is the one you’re in the mood for at that moment.” That sentiment would prove true time and again as I traversed the beer-soaked streets of Colorado.
Blending Botanicals in Boulder
The following day, I woke early and headed to downtown Boulder, fueling up on a hearty breakfast skillet before strolling towards Twisted Pine Brewing Company. This cozy, hand-carved tap house embodied the very essence of the city, with its low ceilings and population of aging hippies.
The brewers here are known for their chile beers, including the infamous Ghost Face Killah. I politely declined the offer to sample the full 12-ounce bottle, opting instead for the slightly less intense Billys Chiles. But my true favorite was the unexpected Tumble Wheat – a refreshing unfiltered wheat ale brewed with locally sourced sage.
“The herb’s unexpected character added real depth to an already compelling wheat beer,” I noted, making a mental note to seek out more botanically-inspired brews.
At BRU handbuilt ales, the menu and beer list stepped up a notch in sophistication. On the patio, I savored a patersbier brewed with sour orange and coriander, as well as a pale ale called Nymeria that tasted delightfully fruity and almost musty. But the standout was the 5290 Saison, brewed with tangerines – the citrus zest perfectly complementing the traditional dry, funky farmhouse ale.
Uncovering Hidden Gems in Industrial Parks
Venturing further into the industrial outskirts of Boulder, I stumbled upon the wonderfully hidden Wild Woods Brewery. Recessed in the back of a nondescript complex, this tiny tap room was already bustling with local beer geeks when I arrived, just minutes after opening.
The beers here were built around locally sourced additives, like the sweet oak-aged Ponderosa Porter made with vanilla bean, or the lightly smoked Campfire Red Ale. But the real standout was the Treeline IPA, dry-hopped and conditioned with juniper berries, which lent a subtle botanical character reminiscent of gin.
“It’s all about that spirit of experimentation and collaboration,” I mused, making a mental note to explore more of these hidden gem breweries tucked away in industrial parks. “You never know what unexpected delights you might uncover.”
Denver: A City of Craft Beer Giants and Neighborhood Gems
The following day, my brother joined me as we set out to tackle the bustling craft beer scene of Denver. We started at the historic Wynkoop Brewing Company, founded in 1988 by current Colorado Governor John Hickenlooper. This brewpub kicked off the state’s craft beer revolution, and its walls are adorned with brewing history.
As we sampled the acclaimed B3K Black Lager, a dry, roasty schwarzbier, I couldn’t help but wonder why more American craft brewers don’t explore this style. “It’s a real shame we don’t see more of these balanced, nuanced dark lagers,” I lamented to my brother. “They’re the perfect antidote to all those heavy, boozy stouts.”
Our next stop was the small but mighty tap room of Great Divide Brewing Company, where we sought refuge from a sudden hailstorm. As the eccentric bartender entertained the crowd with his unorthodox hypotheticals, I gravitated towards the Colette farmhouse ale – slightly tart, with classic flavors of clove and hay.
“I’m a sucker for a well-made saison,” I confessed to my brother, “and this one really hits the spot.”
Sours, Stouts, and the Search for Local Beer at Coors Field
Venturing further into Denver, we discovered the stunning, modern facility of Epic Brewing Company. From the sleek bar to the impressive oak foudres, this place oozed craftsmanship. And the beer lived up to the setting, with innovative offerings like the Brainless series of imperialized fruit beers and the tropical, Mosaic-hopped Escape to Colorado IPA.
But the true showstopper was the barrel-aged Big Bad Baptist imperial stout – a masterful blend of bourbon barrel character and rich coffee flavors. “This is something truly special,” I remarked, making a mental note to add Epic to my list of must-visit Denver breweries.
Our evening culminated with a Rockies game at Coors Field, where we stopped for dinner at the legendary Falling Rock Taphouse. Despite its reputation as one of the best beer bars in the country, the chaotic crowds and limited selection left us a bit disappointed. As I sipped on a consolation-prize Dry Dock DIPA, I couldn’t help but lament the lackluster beer selection at the ballpark itself.
“Come on, Rockies,” I groaned to my brother. “If you want to do Denver proud, you’ve got to step up your game and highlight some of these amazing local breweries!”
Sours, Saisons, and the Spirit of Collaboration in Fort Collins
Leaving Denver behind, I headed north to Fort Collins, where the breweries just kept coming. My first stop was Oskar Blues, a bustling, kitschy tap room plastered with stickers from breweries across the country. As I sipped on the tap room-exclusive Donkey Tail Rye Pale Ale, I couldn’t help but wonder about the stories behind all those far-flung brewery stickers.
Next up was Left Hand Brewing Company, where the classic bluegrass soundtrack and unique bathroom stall doors created a distinctly Western vibe. I sampled their latest Fade to Black release, a black rye ale with peppery spice and black licorice undertones.
At Odell Brewing Company, I found refuge on the large, multi-tiered patio, pairing a Belgian waffle smothered in rosemary sausage gravy with their hop-forward St. Lupulin Pale Ale. “The herb-infused gravy pairs so well with that lemon-y, floral hop character,” I mused, savoring each bite.
Exploring the Giants and the Mavericks of Fort Collins
Just a short walk from Odell, I encountered the true juggernaut of the Colorado craft beer scene – New Belgium Brewing. As I sipped on their Yuzu Imperial Berliner Weisse, I marveled at the sheer scale of the operation, with hourly tours constantly shuttling visitors through the sprawling compound.
“Even with all that production capacity, they still manage to stay innovative,” I noted, picking up on the delicate balance of tart and funky flavors in the yuzu-infused sour.
Providing a stark contrast was Funkwerks, a squat, rainbow-painted building housing the Belgian beer masters of Fort Collins. Their focus on saisons and strong ales was evident in the exotic, fruity Tropic King imperial saison, which blended alcohol presence with spice and unusual hop character.
“These guys are really honing in on that spirit of collaboration and experimentation that defines the best of craft beer,” I observed, already eager to explore more of these maverick breweries on my next visit.
Sours, Stouts, and the Cutting Edge in Denver
As my trip drew to a close, I dedicated my final day to revisiting a few of the standout breweries I had missed in Denver. First up was Crooked Stave, nestled within the bustling artisan collective known as The Source. This place was all about sours, with a focus on achieving the perfect balance of puckering tartness.
The St. Bretta Spring stood out for its beautiful harmony of moderately tart citrus notes, thanks to the addition of Minneola tangelos. “It’s a testament to the skill of these brewers,” I mused, “that they can coax such remarkable flavors from these wild fermentations.”
My final stop was TRVE Brewing Company, the resident heavy metal brewery of Denver. As I descended into the dimly lit, cave-like tap room, I was struck by the sense of adventure and chaos that permeated the place. The beer menu descriptions read like the ramblings of a hasheeshian caravan, and the Viking-inspired barrel names only added to the enigmatic vibe.
But the real standout was the Prehistoric Dog gose – a refreshing, subtly salty creation that left my lips tingling with lingering salinity. It was the perfect way to cap off my journey through Colorado’s cutting-edge craft beer scene.
Crafting a Collaborative Future
As I reflect on my time exploring the brewhouses of Colorado, a few things become abundantly clear. This is an industry constantly pushing boundaries, where brewers come together to create something truly extraordinary. From the experimental botanicals of Wild Woods to the funk-forward saisons of Funkwerks, the spirit of collaboration is alive and well.
Sure, there were a few disappointments along the way – the limited selection at Coors Field, the chaos of Falling Rock Taphouse. But those were mere bumps in the road, overshadowed by the ingenuity and passion I witnessed at every turn.
Whether it was the masterful barrel-aging at Epic, the harmonious citrus notes of Crooked Stave’s sours, or the sheer audacity of TRVE’s heavy metal-inspired creations, one thing remained constant: a relentless drive to innovate, to explore, and to create something truly unique.
